Heads-up: I filmed this series back in 2014 (about 12 years ago), and it’s not how I build bows today. It’s still a solid walkthrough for the general idea, and the dimensions are spot on for a proper bow.
What I do in this part
This is where the bow comes to life. I put the prepped bow from part 5 on the tillering tree from part 2 and bring it from a slack line to full brace while keeping both limbs bending evenly. There’s also a time-lapse of me tillering this bow linked at the end of the video.
Tools & materials
- Tillering tree
- Bathroom scale under the tree
- Sanding block
- Pencil
- Overhead light
The tillering loop (7 steps)
- Brace the bow on the tree.
- Exercise the limbs 30–50 times.
- Pull the string to a notch and check that the bow sits level.
- Evaluate the bend.
- Mark the bow and unbrace it.
- Clamp it at the bench.
- Block-sand a little, then repeat.
Reading the bend
- A hinge is two stiff areas with a weak area between them. Mark a hinge with an X, with lines pointing away from it, and leave that spot alone.
- Scribble on the stiff spots. Those are what you sand.
- Both limbs should bend equally.
Measurements: slack line, half brace, full brace
- Slack line: start 1–2″ past where the limbs first move (for example, 9″), and work one inch at a time to 14″. On mine, that read 16 lb at 14″.
- Next stage: pull to the same weight, not the same inches. On half brace, 16 lb came at 12″. Work from there to about 24″.
- Repeat the process at full brace.
Tips
- Use a sanding block, not your fingers, and press straight down.
- Work under an overhead light so you can see the bend.
- Take about 50–70 strokes per round.
Up next: Part 7, shaping the handle.