Heads-up: I filmed this series back in 2014 (about 12 years ago), and it’s not how I build bows today. It’s still a solid walkthrough for the general idea, and the dimensions are spot on for a proper bow.
What I do in this part
With the fiberglass backing from part 4 cured, I trim and level it, shape the tips and belly, and cut temporary string nocks so the bow is ready for the tillering tree from part 2.
Tools & materials
- Razor knife and gloves
- Pocket Surform and a 60-grit sanding block
- Respirator
- 4-in-1 rasp
- Rat-tail files
- Vise grips for clamping
- Pencil
Step by step
- Trim the fiberglass overhang with a razor. Wear gloves; it’s itchy. Stay off the wood, then bring it flush with the Surform.
- Level the back with the Surform and a 60-grit block. I stop at 60 because this bow gets camo paint. For a clear finish, keep going: 100, 200, 300, then 1000 wet-dry.
- Taper the tip overlays with the 4-in-1 rasp. Hand tools are safer here than a bench sander.
- Round the belly. Draw a pencil line on each side 1/4″ from the back, and round the belly corners down to it, taking more off near the handle. Clamp the bow with vise grips so you don’t dent it.
- Round the back edges just a hair to prevent splinters.
- Cut temporary nocks 1/2–3/4″ from the tips with rat-tail files, angled down toward the handle.
Tips
- Wear a respirator when sanding fiberglass.
- Cut the nocks deep enough. If the string slips out, the bow can snap back at your face.
Up next: Part 6, tillering.