Heads-up: I filmed this series back in 2014 (about 12 years ago), and it’s not how I build bows today. It’s still a solid walkthrough for the general idea, and the dimensions are spot on for a proper bow.
What I do in this part
This video completes the series. After shaping the handle in part 7, I shape the string nocks, do the final sanding, seal the wood, and paint the fiberglass back. After this, you should be able to let an arrow fly.
Tools & materials
- Flat file and 4-way rasp
- 220-grit and 60-grit sandpaper
- Denatured alcohol and a rag
- Deft Clear Wood Finish, satin spray
- Masking tape
- Rust-Oleum Camouflage spray paint, khaki
- A bowstring for testing the nocks
Shaping the nocks
- My older bows just had side notches.
- Round the overlay with a flat file, thinner at the top and sloping into the limb. Don’t go past the string notch.
- Shape the curve with the 4-way rasp. The edge of the file makes a sharp ledge in the notch.
- Test the fit with a string.
Finishing
- Hand-sand the limbs with 220 and the handle with 60. Sanding drops the draw weight a little.
- Wipe it down with denatured alcohol and let it dry.
- Spray a light coat of Deft satin. Wait 24 hours, knock down the raised fibers with 220, then add coats 2 and 3.
- Mask off, then spray 3 light coats of khaki camo on the fiberglass back.
Tips
- White lines on the belly are the finish bunching up from compression, not cracks. Red oak isn’t the best wood for compression.
- Exercise the limbs before shooting.
- Never dry fire the bow.
What’s next
Still to come for this bow: a Flemish string, a leather arrow rest, a grip wrap, and rabbit fur silencers.
Missed a step? Start from part 1.