Heads-up: I filmed this series back in 2014 (about 12 years ago), and it’s not how I build bows today. It’s still a solid walkthrough for the general idea, and the dimensions are spot on for a proper bow.
What I do in this part
With a good board picked out (part 1) and a tillering tree built (part 2), it’s time to lay out the bow, cut the tapers, and glue on the riser and tip overlays.
Tools & materials
- The 72″ red oak 1×2 from part 1
- A 12″ red oak block for the riser
- Scrap for tip overlays, 1.5″ long by 1/4″ thick
- Wood glue
- Three 3″ C-clamps, plus two 1.5–2″ clamps for the tips
- Bandsaw (not a jigsaw)
- 4-way rasp and a Surform, or a disc sander
- Plastic to put under the glue-up
Measurements
- Overall length: 72″. Mark the center at 36″.
- Handle: 12″ long, 6″ each way from center.
- Fades: 1″ past each end of the handle with no taper.
- Width at the tips: 1/2″ (1/4″ each side of the centerline), tapering from the 1″ fade mark.
- Belly taper: from the fade down to 3/8″ thick at the tips. The back stays untapered.
Step by step
- Lay out a true centerline. Put three dots in the handle area only, at 3/4″ (the middle of the 1.5″ width), and extend that line the full length. This works even on a crooked board.
- Mark the width taper from the fade mark to 1/2″ at each tip.
- Cut outside the line on the bandsaw. Rough it down with the 4-way rasp and finish with the Surform, or use a disc sander.
- Taper the belly from the fade to 3/8″ at the tips.
- Glue the 12″ riser to the belly. Carry the center line onto the sides of the block, glue both surfaces, set it on plastic, and clamp with three 3″ C-clamps. Tighten and adjust until glue oozes out, then leave it 24 hours.
- Glue the tip overlays to the back, 1.5″ long by 1/4″ thick, with small clamps. You’ll trim them flush later.
Tips
- Always cut outside the line. You can take wood away, but you can’t put it back.
- Glue both surfaces on the riser for a solid bond.
Up next: Part 4, backing the bow.